Here's what I can't stand: I'm on the road, I resign myself to some pretentious restaurant with overpriced food, and a stuffy waiter brings me my order and puts it on the table in front of me and says, 'Enjoy.' It's even worse when the waiter returns with a gigantic peppermill, as big as a baseball bat: Pepper? There is a perfectly nice little peppershaker on the table. The snootier the joint, the bigger the peppermill the waiter brings. Why is that? But mainly, why must I be instructed to enjoy my meal? The problem is: How to get rid of this injunction to enjoy?